Hands-On Review: Tissot Seastar 1000 40mm Powermatic 80

Based in 1853 in Le Locle, Switzerland, Tissot has spent over 170 years mastering the artwork of accessible Swiss watchmaking. In contrast to a few of the higher-end manufacturers that focus solely on luxurious, Tissot sits on this lovely intersection of historical past, affordability, and fashionable innovation. And, being a member of the Swatch Group, Tissot advantages from entry to ETA-based actions (just like the Powermatic 80 seen right here), anti-magnetic expertise, and cutting-edge supplies—all at rather more accessible value factors.

Talking of innovation and anti-magnetism, Tissot is definitely credited with producing the primary ever non-magnetic wrist watch with the business launch of the Antimagnetique in 1930.

Within the early Fifties, Tissot collaborated with the Swiss Laboratory for Watchmaking Analysis of Neuchâtel to develop waterproof timepieces. This partnership led to the creation of fashions just like the “Tenting” (1938) and “Aquasport” (1939), which had been anti-magnetic, shockproof, and dust-tight, that includes chrome steel circumstances with unbreakable glass. Constructing upon these improvements, Tissot launched the “Seaster” in 1952, a reputation that will grow to be synonymous with the model’s dedication to producing dependable waterproof dive watches.

The Seastar moniker has since gone on to see a number of iterations over the following a long time together with a very revamped design of the Seastar in 2003 (the Seastar 660), adopted up in 2004 with the revered Seastar 1000 –– a reputation that straight references the timepiece’s 300m water resistance.

Quick ahead all the way in which as much as 2018, the place Tissot made a splash with the modernized 43mm model. And, whereas the 43mm Seastar Powermatic 80 has been a strong possibility for larger-wristed collectors, Tissot acknowledged that not everybody needs a full-sized dive watch.

Enter the Tissot Seastar 1000 40mm Powermatic 80, a extra compact, versatile model of the Seastar that retains the identical hard-wearing specs, however in a extra wearable, everyday-friendly 40mm case dimension. It’s nonetheless bought 300 meters of water resistance, an 80-hour energy reserve, and an upgraded fumé dial housed beneath a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal – all for nicely beneath $1,000.

Sounds promising, proper? However how does it stack up in real-world use? Let’s break it down.

At a Look

Unboxing the Tissot Seastar 1000 40mm Powermatic 80, the very first thing that stands out is its understated however refined presence. We’re big followers of dive watches (even when they find yourself merely being desk divers), usually overly aggressive with daring colorways or outsized markers –– however the black dial Seastar 1000 eschews these design aesthetics. It feels measured, modern, and intentionally designed. 

And in contrast to the bigger 43mm Seastar, which felt only a bit too giant and chunky for a lot of fanatics, this new 40mm model instantly feels extra wearable, extra versatile, and only a bit extra thought-out in its execution.

Straight away, the fumé dial attracts consideration; it’s undoubtedly the star of the present, visually talking, at the very least. Tissot may have simply performed it protected with a flat black dial, however as an alternative, they opted for a vertically brushed texture that subtly fades from deep black on the edges to a smoky charcoal tone on the heart. 

This ending alternative isn’t one thing you see on many divers at this value level. It elevates the watch past the everyday entry-level Swiss diver and right into a realm of refinement that’s extra akin to items from manufacturers like Oris or Longines.

Then, there’s the bracelet and case ending, which really feel instantly extra premium than anticipated. Having dealt with loads of watches within the sub-$1,000 class, there’s usually a bent for manufacturers to chop corners on ending, choosing overly polished surfaces that appeal to scratches or an uninspired brushed end that lacks depth. However right here, Tissot has executed a considerate mixture of satin brushing and high-polish bevels that really feel like they may simply belong on a watch at double the value.

By way of weight, the Seastar 1000 has simply sufficient heft to really feel substantial however stays comfy and balanced (it weighs roughly 148 grams for reference). It doesn’t have the weightiness of one thing like a Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight, however on the identical time, it doesn’t really feel as mild or hole as an entry-level Seiko Prospex mannequin just like the SPB143. It lands proper within the center—a satisfying weight that offers it a premium really feel with out pointless bulk.

With dive watches, case proportions make or break wearability, and Tissot completely nailed it right here.

At 40mm in diameter, 12.6mm thick, and with a 46mm lug-to-lug, the Seastar 1000 hits the candy spot, and felt nice as a daily-driver dive watch on our wearer’s 6.75” wrists right here. In contrast to its bigger 43mm sibling, which felt cumbersome and overpowering on smaller wrists, this model wears compact and balanced. It has simply sufficient wrist presence to really feel substantial with out being overbearing.

The 316L chrome steel case is generally brushed, giving it that tool-watch ruggedness, however Tissot added simply sufficient polished accents alongside the case edges and bracelet heart hyperlinks to maintain issues refined. The marginally curved lugs guarantee it hugs the wrist correctly, that means no awkward overhang even on smaller wrists. And, in fact you could have 300m of water resistance and a screw-down crown on the 3 o’clock place.

Now, let’s speak in regards to the bezel, since that is the place opinions get divided. The 120-click, unidirectional bezel has a superb, crisp motion with none noticeable play. Though, it’s value noting that the bezel didn’t align completely with the numerals. It’s additionally devoid of any lume, save for the lume pip discovered on the 12 o’clock marker.

The bezel insert itself is mineral crystal, slightly than ceramic or sapphire. We do perceive how this might be a dealbreaker for some —particularly when contemplating many different divers supply ceramic at this value level. However, mineral crystal does have its benefits; it has a vintage-inspired glossiness much like Bakelite, which supplies the watch a traditional aesthetic that we expect pairs nicely with the fumé dial.

Flipping the watch over, the exhibition screw-down caseback showcases the Powermatic 80 motion. It’s not closely adorned, however you do get a Tissot-branded rotor and a peek on the Swiss engineering inside. 

As beforehand talked about, the fumé dial is what separates this watch from the ocean of entry-level dive watches. In contrast to flat, customary black dials, Tissot’s brushed gradient impact catches mild superbly, shifting between deep black and smokey charcoal relying on the angle.

The sapphire crystal options anti-reflective coating on each side, which translated to improbable legibility right here in vibrant Los Angeles daylight. 

The utilized indices are daring, polished, and generously full of Swiss Tremendous-LumiNova, which we discovered offered glorious nighttime readability. The sword-style arms are proportionate and well-finished. And the 60-second monitor on the encircling concave rehaut is a pleasant contact.

The 6 o’clock date window is one other large win. As an alternative of throwing in a mismatched white date wheel, Tissot color-matched it to the dial, holding the design cohesive and symmetrical. Like many others earlier than us, we aren’t big followers of the three strains of texts situated simply above the date window as it could possibly begin to really feel a bit cluttered.

Because the title of the watch suggests, this specific Tissot Seastar 1000 40mm is powered by the Powermatic 80 automatic movement, a closely modified model of the ETA 2824-2 that’s greatest identified for its 80-hour energy reserve –– practically double what you’d get from an ordinary ETA 2824 (which gives round 38 to 42 hours).

Sadly, that prolonged energy reserve means some sacrifices should be made elsewhere. With a beat price of 21,600 vibrations per hour, the sweep of the seconds hand isn’t as fluid as a standard 28,800 VPH motion, however the tradeoff is way much less winding and higher longevity. Whereas that tradeoff isn’t an enormous deal for us, your mileage could differ.

Accuracy-wise, you’re about -1 to +5 seconds per day, which is respectable for an entry-level Swiss automated. It additionally encompasses a Nivachron steadiness spring making it extremely proof against magnetic fields.

The bracelet is a three-link, Oyster-style chrome steel design, that includes polished heart hyperlinks and brushed outer hyperlinks for some good distinction.

Whereas we’re followers of the chrome steel bracelet, the quick-release spring bars make swapping the strap for a rubber, NATO, or leather-based model a breeze.

The clasp, nonetheless, is practical however considerably outdated. It options three micro-adjustments, however lacks on-the-fly changes or a dive extension. And, whereas dive extensions may not be as sensible for desk divers, on-the-fly micro changes are one thing we’ve grow to be fairly keen on, and one thing that will have been a welcomed enchancment.

In order we wrap up our assessment, we as soon as once more ask ourselves, is the Tissot Seastar 1000 40mm Powermatic 80 value it? 

For well under $1,000 (retailing at $750), you get a shocking fumé dial, balanced proportions, 300m of water resistance, and an 80-hour energy reserve — specs which might be nearly unprecedented at this value level. 

There are a couple of areas for enchancment, like upgrading the bezel insert to sapphire or ceramic and refining the clasp for higher adjustability, however these are small nitpicks in an in any other case improbable package deal; the Tissot Seastar is a superb entry-level Swiss diver that’s nicely well worth the price ticket.

After all, we’d be remiss if we didn’t at the very least point out the Certina DS Motion Diver, which is powered by the identical Powermatic 80 motion. And whereas we’re big followers of Certina, and the ISO 6425 certification provides it a slight edge with regards to dive pedigree, the 38mm model will set you again simply north of $800, and we do assume it in the end comes down to private desire as each watches pack a ton of worth for the value.

Should you dig the worth proposition supplied by Tissot however micro manufacturers are extra your factor, it’s undoubtedly value having a look on the Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 300, which begins nearer to $900 for a non-metal bracelet.

Tissot Seastar 1000 40mm Powermatic 80

With an exquisite fumé dial, balanced proportions, 300m of water resistance, and an 80-hour energy reserve, the Tissot Seastar 1000 40mm gives immense worth for simply $750.

Professionals

• Putting fumé dial
• Satisfying weight and wrist really feel
• Mixture of satin brushing and high-polish bevels give it a extra premium really feel
• Excellent legibility
• Motion provides you 80 hours of energy reserve
• Bracelet will be swapped simply with quick-release spring bars

Cons

• Bezel has alignment points
• Bezel may use extra lume
• Mineral crystal bezel has classic appeal however may not be most popular over ceramic
• Bracelet design is a bit outdated, missing on-the-fly changes or a dive extension